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Lister D & DK Instructions


By Craig - Posted on 11 August 2011

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INSTALLATION. Fix the engine level and accessible. Arrange cooling tank with the bottom pipe level and the top pipe in a continuous upward slope. If a longer exhaust is necessary use 1 1/4" bore pipe or larger and turn downward from the engine.

COOLING. Fill water tank, radiator or hopper. If the engine is tank cooled see that the three-way cock is turned so that the water can flow from the tank into the engine cylinder jacket. Add water as necessary to maintain water level. Boiling in the hopper does not matter. Drain water in frosty weather.

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EXHAUST. The exhaust should be colourless. Black smoke indicated too much fuel, blue smoke too much lubricating oil. Clean out the exhaust pipes when decarbonising.

LUBRICATION. For petrol engines use Listeroil L2 in winter and Listeroil L3 in summer. For petrol-vapourising engines always use Listeroil L3. Where Listeroil is not available, use SAE 30 oil in temperate climates and SAE 40 oil in tropical climates.

Every three months drain off lubricating oil through plug 'P'. Remove door 'A' and clean out crank case. Do this every 100 hours if engine is running on vapourising oil.

Always keep the engine sump Lubricator 'W' and 'L' filled.

STARTING New or Over hauled engine. Remove door 'A' and filler cap 'K', pour lubrication oil into crankcase until the filler is full. Fill the timing gear through hole on left inside crankcase. Turn crank to front end of Splash Tray and pour oil over Big End Bearing, particularly into the two holes in the Connecting Rod Boss, rocking the shaft at the same time. This will provide the intial lubrication for the Big End Bearing. Further oil as necessary should be added through filler 'K' and oil should always be visible in this filler. Remove plug marked 'Oil' under magneto also the lubricator 'W' and pour a teaspoonful of the oil into each hole. Fill lubricator 'W' with oil, fill greaser 'L' with brown grease giving it a few turns. Fill fuel tank 'B' using a fine gauze strainer and see that the ignition cable is connected to the sparking plug. Clean magneto contacts.

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TO START PETROL ENGINE. Turn on fuel tap 'I', pull flywheel in opposite direction to arrow until compression is felt. Turn fuel regulator 'R' to start position, then while turning the starting handle place a finger on the air valve 'C' to give necessary rich mixture. After engine has started turn down the fuel regulator as far as possible without slowing the engine. Every notch reduces fuel consumption and carbon deposit.

TO START PETROL-VAPOURISING OIL ENGINE (New or Overhaulled Engine). Fill main tank with paraffin or vapourising oil and the small container with petrol. Turn fuel tap to petrol and start as above. Allow to run for a few minutes on petrol before turning fuel tap to main tank. If the engine misfires place a finger on the air valve 'C' to allow engine to pick up speed.

TO STOP. Turn off fuel until engine falters then turn quickly to petrol. Turn down regulator and shut off fuel at 3-way tap. Leave tap on main fuel tank open. The engine is now ready for re-starting. Should the engine stop suddenly while running it will be necessary to turn off the fuel at the 3 way tap, drain the fuel from the carburettor and re-start as for new or overhauled engine.

IGNITION AT FAULT. Clean sparking plugs and re-set gap to .020" and test. Use sparking plugs such as Lodge BBL or equivalent. If a good spark is not seen read magneto Instruction Book. Use Lodge 3BL or equivalent when using vapourising oil.

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COMPRESSION. Loss of compression may be due to a valve sticking open or carbon on the valve seat. pour a little parrafin around each valve stem. Compress the valve spring in turn with a screw driver or suitable tool and slip it off allowing the valve to close with a snap. Alternatively the loss of compression may be due to no tappet clearance, piston rings stuck in grooves, cylinder worn or cylinder head nuts slack.

KNOCKING. May be caused by worn bearings, carbon deposit on the piston and cylinder head, overheating, overload, pre-ignition or loose flywheel.

DECARBONISING. This is recommended every three months. Drain water system, remove top covers, sparking plug and radiator fan (if fitted), disconnect throttle rod and fuel pipe . Slide out rocker shaft, removing rockers, push rods and valve stem caps. Remove nuts and washers that secure the cylinder head and lift slightly; free gasket with a thin bladed knife, then lift off. Remove the five nuts holding the main bearing housing to the crankcase. Crankshaft, flywheel and housing can be removed, while supporting the piston and connecting rod, which may be withdrawn through the top of the cylinder.

Remove all carbon, grind in valves if pitted and replace all parts. Fit the flat side of connecting rod next to the crank web. The cylinder gasket if damaged must be renewed. Tighten cylinder head nuts evenly and adjust tappet clearence to .031" when cold. After running the engine, retighten cylinder head nuts and check tappet clearance.

TIMING VALVES. Turn crankshaft to T.D.C., assemble timing case with cam at the top position as illustrated, the timing case may then be bolted to the crankcase. If the timing case has been dismantled, turn camshaft with the cam at the top, turn trailing shaft with fork at the top and engage gears. Fit spiral gear to end of trailing shaft.

TIMING IGNITION. Turn flywheel until ignition mark Book-68-20_0.jpg on rim is at the top. Loosen magneto sproket and turn magneto spindle in normal direction until the contacts just commence to separate; push the sprocket back on the spindle and tighten nut.